ferrata

For the last two days in Cortina, Dave climbed a few Via Ferrata routes, while Karen relaxed and did some light hiking. Before this, we hiked with Wilderness travel in the Cortina area, after spending a few days in Venice. We took the train to Berne, Swizerland, enroute to Geneva and Chamonix.

A panoramic view of the Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona - a very popular high level traverse on Monte Cristallo. Note the famous suspension bridge.

My first real via ferrata route (I did one on Monday but it was rated as an "a" and involved very little mountaineering) was "Michielli Albino Strobel". It seems they're all named after climbing guides who fell to their deaths. It ascends Punta Fiames, the sharp peak in the photo above. The actual climb is about 2000 feet of high angle rock. The climbing route begins by traversing left on the lowest tree covered ledge on the face above, then ascending straight up on high angle rock to the ledge mid-way up. Left to the top of that ledge, then diagonally right to the open book, then following the skyline to the summit.

Looking down from the first pitch, you can see how steep the face is. Looking up from mid-way on the first high-angle section. You can see the protecting cable center right and a climber's helmet center left. It may look challenging to you, but I certainly felt put in my place when I came across this father and son team at the bottom of the second high-angle section.

Like any good climb, the crux was the last wall before reaching the summit ridge. Fortunately, a steel ladder helps with the overhanging bottom of this face. I lunched on the summit, sharing my bread with the crows and looking down on Cortina. Across the valley, I could see the three summits of the Tofana. There's a class "f" via ferrata there, but I wasn't quite ready to do that.

The descent from Punta Fiames is via a long scree chute, which was entertaining. Sunday morning, I took the ski lifts up from Rio Gere to Forcella Staunies. In the photo above, you can see the massive peak of Monte Cristallo, and to its left, Cristallo de Mezza, my first destination. The second ski lift consisted of bullet shaped gondolas leading up to the Forcella.

As I began the ascent on the "Marino Bianchi" via ferrata, the clouds began to swirl in, hiding the main summit and sometimes the mezzo as well. It was clear above the mezzo summit as I approached, but cloudy below. This was the perfect conditions to form a "glory" - a rainbow wreathed shadow of myself on the clouds below.

Traversing back along the ridge, I caught glimpses of Cortina through the clouds below. I had the trail to myself on the ascent, but as I came back down, I met more climbers coming up this popular route. As I neared the rifugio at the forcella, climbers became more numerous.

But if the "Marino Bianchi" routes seemed crowded, it was nothing compared to the "Ivona Dibona" traverse. This is probably the most popular via ferrata near Cortina, with its famous suspension bridge. I crossed the bridge without a second thought, but when I turned back to see those following me, I learned that most were cautious enough to clip their slings to the cables. Maybe they knew how long they'd been there. The Dibona route was too crowded for my taste, so I headed down this scree slope to take the "Rene de Pol" route instead.

Both the Dibona and de Pol routes wind among World War I fortifications. Mte. Cristallo was one of the front lines for fighting, and many Austrian strongholds were established on its ridges. In some places, blasted caves called "gallerias" would have held troops with machine guns, defending the passes. The Rene de Pol route led to the aptly named Forcella Verde (the only green on a ridge of scree) before the rock climbing began.

Among the grasses of the pass, more wildflowers..... The crux of this route was the steep descent over three steps of rock down from the ridge to the village of Ospitale.. Our last night in Cortina, a band played for the locals. The selection of music was very eclectic. I'd never heard a world class xylophone player solo on a polka before! They did, of course, show a preference toward Tyrolean marches, though.

Monday we took the train to Innsbruck. Among our sightseeing activities was an ascent of the city tower, where we could look down on the famous "gold roof" of Maxmillian I. The surrounding mountains were beautiful, particularly when the sun broke through the clouds. Looks good for a skip trip someday. Karen poses by the river Inn, with the church towers behind.

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My first real via ferrata route (I did one on Monday but it was rated as an "a" and involved very little mountaineering) was "Michielli Albino Strobel". It seems they're all named after climbing guides who fell to their deaths.	It ascends Punta Fiames, the sharp peak in the photo above. The actual climb is about 2000 feet of high angle rock.	The climbing route begins by traversing left on the lowest tree covered ledge on the face above, then ascending straight up on high angle rock to the ledge mid-way up. Left to the top of that ledge, then diagonally right to the open book, then following the skyline to the summit.

Looking down from the first pitch, you can see how steep the face is.	Looking up from mid-way on the first high-angle section. You can see the protecting cable center right and a climber's helmet center left.	It may look challenging to you, but I certainly felt put in my place when I came across this father and son team at the bottom of the second high-angle section.

Like any good climb, the crux was the last wall before reaching the summit ridge. Fortunately, a steel ladder helps with the overhanging bottom of this face.	I lunched on the summit, sharing my bread with the crows and looking down on Cortina.	Across the valley, I could see the three summits of the Tofana. There's a class "f" via ferrata there, but I wasn't quite ready to do that.

The descent from Punta Fiames is via a long scree chute, which was entertaining.	Sunday morning, I took the ski lifts up from Rio Gere to Forcella Staunies. In the photo above, you can see the massive peak of Monte Cristallo, and to its left, Cristallo de Mezza, my first destination.	The second ski lift consisted of bullet shaped gondolas leading up to the Forcella.

As I began the ascent on the "Marino Bianchi" via ferrata, the clouds began to swirl in, hiding the main summit and sometimes the mezzo as well.	It was clear above the mezzo summit as I approached, but cloudy below.	This was the perfect conditions to form a "glory" - a rainbow wreathed shadow of myself on the clouds below.

Traversing back along the ridge, I caught glimpses of Cortina through the clouds below.	I had the trail to myself on the ascent, but as I came back down, I met more climbers coming up this popular route.	As I neared the rifugio at the forcella, climbers became more numerous.

But if the "Marino Bianchi" routes seemed crowded, it was nothing compared to the "Ivona Dibona" traverse. This is probably the most popular via ferrata near Cortina, with its famous suspension bridge.	I crossed the bridge without a second thought, but when I turned back to see those following me, I learned that most were cautious enough to clip their slings to the cables. Maybe they knew how long they'd been there.	The Dibona route was too crowded for my taste, so I headed down this scree slope to take the "Rene de Pol" route instead.

Both the Dibona and de Pol routes wind among World War I fortifications. Mte. Cristallo was one of the front lines for fighting, and many Austrian strongholds were established on its ridges.	In some places, blasted caves called "gallerias" would have held troops with machine guns, defending the passes.	The Rene de Pol route led to the aptly named Forcella Verde (the only green on a ridge of scree) before the rock climbing began.

Among the grasses of the pass, more wildflowers.....	The crux of this route was the steep descent over three steps of rock down from the ridge to the village of Ospitale..	Our last night in Cortina, a band played for the locals. The selection of music was very eclectic. I'd never heard a world class xylophone player solo on a polka before! They did, of course, show a preference toward Tyrolean marches, though.

Monday we took the train to Innsbruck. Among our sightseeing activities was an ascent of the city tower, where we could look down on the famous "gold roof" of Maxmillian I.	The surrounding mountains were beautiful, particularly when the sun broke through the clouds. Looks good for a skip trip someday.	Karen poses by the river Inn, with the church towers behind.